In a city so snobbish about food, the Castro long lagged behind other neighborhoods in its culinary offerings. Less than a decade ago, there were few options outside the basic slice of pizza or greasy-spoon diner. High-quality eateries have emerged in recent years, though not every newcomer has raised the bar. And yes, you can still get that slice of pizza or cup of diner-grade joe, if that's what you're looking for.

Coffee shops & cafes

As with many neighborhoods in the city, you can hardly swing a sippy cup without smacking into a café. The 'Stro does have the inevitable Starbucks (4094 18th St.), often referred to as "Daddy Starbucks" for its butch clientele. But make no mistake -- ask any neighborhood denizen where they buy their beans, and you're likely to hear The Castro Cheesery (427 Castro St.). Sure, they still sell cheese, but you'd never know it from the overpowering aroma of dozens of types of coffee. Other local faves include Spike's Coffee & Teas (4117 19th St.), with its friendly, flirty baristas, and Duboce Triangle's Jumpin' Java (139 Noe St.), boasting a charmingly cultivated area out front, in one of the quaintest and quietest corners.

Diners and casual eats

A handful of diners are absolute fixtures in the neighborhood, having occupied their respective locations for decades: Orphan Andy's (3991 17th St.), Cove Café (434 Castro St.) and Welcome Home (464 Castro St.) are virtually interchangeable in cuisine, atmosphere and clientele, and each offers a taste of the Castro of old, fresh off the griddle. The expansive plate glass windows that flank the sides of Bagdad Café (2295 Market St.) are the first hint that the food is not the main draw here. But it's an agreeable enough place to see and be seen as the masses stroll along the busiest stretch of Market Street. And yes, we know, it's missing an 'h'. And no, we don't know why.

Sliders (449 Castro St.) serves up flame-broiled burgers and piping hot fries and onion rings in a no-frills environment. For average all-American, all-night food served in too-bright surroundings by people who shouldn't still be awake, Sparky's (242 Church St.) is perfect. Stick with the basics. Try to soak up what's in your stomach and relish the fact that other patrons are worse off than you. At the unfortunately named BS (4072 18th St.), it's all about the cow -- enough cuts of Niman Ranch beef to make a vegetarian blush. However, highlights include the catfish and the grown-up milkshakes in, as the menu vaguely puts it, "various flavors."

Something about the brusquely imperative nature of the name of Squat and Gobble (3600 16th St.) leaves a foul (fowl?) taste in our mouths, but in fact this quaint crepery manages to serve up tasty, hardy and hefty portions, as does the somewhat more elegant Crepevine (216 Church St.). With a variety of concoctions combining crepes, eggs and a variety of meats and veggies, each is a popular spot for post-bender absorption brunches.

See & be seen

With its giant wrap-around patio flanking Market and Noe streets, Cafe Flore (2298 Market St.) is not the place to hide on laundry day -- unless you happen to own a pair of fabulous cat-eye sunglasses -- as you're bound to run into someone you know. Blue (2337 Market St.) has become a popular hangout along the Market Street corridor by providing great views of the busy sidewalk outside and serving dependable American diner fare (a.k.a. "comfort food") with a gourmet twist. An eclectic small-plates menu (think grilled cheese dipped into a Campbell's-inspired tomato sauce) in a quirky atmosphere (think white pleather booths and pink back-lit mirrors) make Lime (2247 Market St.) worthy of the buzz it's received. Mecca (2029 Market St.), though ugly on the outside, is beautiful on the inside, both in terms of clientele and decor. A tasty Mediterranean menu and sultry ambiance attract crowds.

Nice night out

2223 Restaurant and Bar (2223 Market St.) serves more-than-decent California cuisine with Mediterranean influences, but its success rests on great cocktails (including the giant martinis) and a good wine list. Catch (2362 Market St.), a neighborhood newcomer, dishes up traditional but tasty fish and a modicum of other treats for landlubbers. It boasts one of the few open-air eating spaces in the 'hood, semi-enclosed with heaters for those chilly summer brunches. With a warm atmosphere and an enclosed terrace, reasonably-priced Côté Sud (4238 18th St.) has all the charm of a southern French home, with just enough edge to fit comfortably into its urban location. The cassoulet alone is worth the trip. The 20-year-old East-West restaurant Sumi (4243 18th St.) got a contemporary new look in 2005, and continues to draw a loyal clientele.

Mid-range and dependable

There's no earthly reason to take guests to Fisherman's Wharf to get New England Clam Chowder, freshly-shucked oysters, or fresh crab, when you can get diner-style counter service at the clean, non-frilly Anchor Oyster Bar and Seafood Market (579 Castro St.). You can even get oysters to go. Brunch + patio = fun at Luna (558 Castro St.), and on cool nights, the wooden deck at this small restaurant is covered with canvas awnings and warmed by space heaters. Those who like a little Sunday brunch pick-me-up can hit the make-your-own-Bloody Mary bar at cozy, reasonably-priced Home (2100 Market St.), which also specializes in good old American comfort food. Anything from the wood-fire oven is a good choice at super-popular, pocketbook-friendly Chow (215 Church St.). La Méditeranée (288 Noe St.) -- or La Med, as it's colloquially called -- offers consistently delicious Middle Eastern fare at reasonable prices.

Local chains

Homey and dependable, if unexciting, Cal-Italian fare can be had for bargain prices at Firewood (4248 18th St.). Best bets include rotisserie chicken, pizzas and tortellini. At comfortably stylish Fuzio (469 Castro St.), pasta dishes from around the world are tasty and affordable, and get to the table fast. One caveat: the space can be ear-numbingly loud. There's nothing fancy at Asqew Grill (3583 16th St.), just fresh meats and seafood, grilled up good and served with starch or salad. But you can't beat the quality-to-price ratio.

Grab a snack

At Italian gourmet food store A.G. Ferrari (468 Castro St.), you can create a quick dinner with fresh and packaged pastas and sauces, fine cheeses, fresh baked bread, quality olives, olive oils, vinegars and more. Prepared foods, including panini, salads and strudel, are also available for lunch in a hurry. Tea aficionados and those looking for a break from coffee culture have a retreat in Samovar Tea Lounge (498 Sanchez St.), where more than 100 whole-leaf teas and herbal infusions from around the globe are offered in a contemporary yet serene environment. Samovar also offers a range of globally inspired breakfast items and small plates. If you're in a hurry, Harvest Ranch Market (2285 Market St.) provides a nice alternative to sit-down restaurant fare, with quality pre-made foods like wraps, pasta, sandwiches and soups, and excellent pre-made rice and vegetarian/vegan salads. The sidewalk outside the store sometimes turns into an impromptu picnic area, especially on sunny weekend afternoons.

Mexican

Hey, it ain't the Mission, so don't expect killer Mexican food here. But if you just have to have that burrito and you can't schlep the few blocks over to Valencia Street, there are a few options. Taqueria El Castillito (4001 18th St. has a loyal following who even eschew Mission joints in favor of their burritos. Cactus Fresh (2312 Market St.) isn't the most authentic wrap in town, but it does live up to its name with fresh ingredients and clean flavors. Newcomer Los Flamingos (151 Noe St.) merges standard Mex with Cuban flair. Beyond the basic burrito, they offer Cuban sandwiches and classic dishes like ropa viejo. Drop by Wednesday evenings for menu sampler night, and taste your way around the forbidden isle.

Sushi

The Castro is home to a surprising number of sushi restaurants. Biggest and splashiest is Daimaru (290 Sanchez St.), with L.A.-style rolls sporting vibrant colors and flavors in a slightly too-well lit venue. But don't overlook little Izumi (317 Sanchez St.), cater corner from it. What it lacks in glitz it more than makes up for on charm and serenity. The age nasu, an eggplant appetizer, is a house specialty, and the lemon oysters are divine. Yokoso Nippon Sushi (314 Church St.), otherwise known as "No Name Sushi," is perpetually popular for its low prices, dependable service, and fresh fish. There's no sign, no phone, no alcohol for sale, and it's a cash-only enterprise. Across the street, Warakubune (307 Church St.) is the only sushi boat joint in the area, with fresh, unfussy rolls and nigiri floating in a constant flow. Tucked away in a quiet corner of Duboce Triangle, Amasia Hide (149 Noe St.) breaks form with the very fusion-y sounding sushi crepes. On the main drag, Osaka Sushi (460 Castro St.) is a solid lunch option for the bento box.

Thai

The numerous Thai restaurants in the Castro rival any in town. Longtime favorite Thai House (599 Castro St.) sprang from their almost secretive location in Duboce Triangle smack onto Castro Street, eschewing its old ornate ornamentation for a slick, edgy interior. One of the best versions of larb gai can be found at its big-sister outpost Thai House #2 (2200 Market St.). At rival twin restaurants Khun Phoa (4068 18th St. and 2367 Market St.), food is solid rather than flashy and the service is quick and efficient.

Did someone say dessert?

The friendly staff at Gelateria Naia (451 Castro St.) will offer sample upon sample of their gelato, which is made without artificial flavors, colors or preservatives. They also have dairy-free soy versions. Favorites in the mesmerizing pastry case at Sweet Inspiration (2239 Market St.) are tiramisu and the black-bottom tart -- a devilish combination of blackberries and chocolate custard -- though it's hard to go wrong with any of the cookies, pies, tarts and cakes. At Hot Cookie (407 Castro St.), snickerdoodles and assorted macadamia nut cookies join old favorites, like chocolate chip and brownies. As the name implies, they're fresh out of the oven. For something a bit fancier, Joseph Schmidt Confections (3489 16th St.) sells his signature egg-shaped truffles and colorful, whimsical European-style confections. It's worth stopping by just to see the chocolate sculptures.

For more Castro restaurants, check out these Chronicle reviews.