If only the Mexican land barons and European homesteaders who built the Castro district could see it -- and the price of its real estate -- today. What was once dairy farms and dirt roads is now one of the city's most vibrant and cohesive communities, saturated with stylish shops and bars so popular that patrons spill out onto the street. Irish, German, and Scandinavian immigrants came to the outskirts of San Francisco in search of cheap land, which became bona fide suburbs after 1887 when the Market Street Cable Railway linked Eureka Valley, as it was then called, with the rest of the city. Thanks to these homesteaders, who built large, handsome Victorian houses for their large families, today's residents have someplace to pour their money, and the vast majority of the neighborhood's classic homes have been lovingly and artfully restored.

Eureka Valley remained a quiet, working-class neighborhood until the postwar era, when large numbers of people started fleeing the city for the "suburbs." Finally, in the 1960s and '70s, gay men began buying the charming old Victorians at relatively low prices ($20,000-$40,000), and the neighborhood was soon named for its busiest thoroughfare, Castro Street.

The activism of the '60s and '70s forged a community with sizable political and economic power, and when the historic Twin Peaks bar at Market and Castro streets was built with floor-to-ceiling windows, most took it as a sign that Castro residents were secure in their gay identity. There were, however, tense and sometimes violent clashes with the police, and the assassination in 1978 of openly gay San Francisco Supervisor Harvey Milk was a turning point in the community's history. Milk's death and the impact of AIDS brought the community together and made activists of almost everyone; the Castro became not just open but celebratory about its thriving gay and lesbian population.

Today, the Castro's queer identity is itself a tourist attraction, beckoning throngs of pilgrims and revelers from all over the world. Since the introduction of the F Market street car, shuttling unsuspecting Midwestern families down from Fisherman's Wharf, denizens have been lamenting the demise and dilution of the gayest spot on earth. Yet the unabated proliferation of shops selling, ahem, adult accessories sporting neon signs touting "Lube 4 Less" tips off even the most untrained eye to the deeply entrenched community here.

Best Time to Go

The Castro is bustling all day long, but at night it really comes alive, as the bars from the Mint to the Midnight Sun fill up and the Castro Theatre's neon marquee lights up the main drag. Though the Castro's nightlife doesn't have as much to offer women as many dykes would like, it remains a fairly safe neighborhood after hours, and there are plenty of places where women, queer or not, can feel at home.  

Events

In October, not long before the Halloween craze hits the Castro, the Castro Street Fair booms with music from four different stages. The city's longest-running street fair (founded by Harvey Milk himself) also features crafts, drag shows, comedy, food, plenty of drink and more people than you knew existed. Halloween is one of the biggest and most extravagant festivals of its kind anywhere, with Castro, 18th and Market Streets closed off for the festivities. Nowhere else are you likely to see wigs so big, frocks so shocking or so many Patsy Stones in one place.

The last Sunday in June, Market Street becomes a throbbing, queer sea of human beings for the San Francisco Pride celebration and parade. The parade is always led by the SF Women's Motorcycle Contingent, the celebration at Civic Center will fulfill your every need for rainbow and pink-triangle bric-a-brac, and the plethora of pre- and post-parade parties will satisfy even hard-core circuit boys. The Saturday before the big parade, the Mission and Castro districts are taken over by lesbians from all walks of life, as well as their children, pets and musical instruments for the SF Dyke March (and Rally).

The SF International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival is truly the most exciting time of year in the Castro. The Film Festival and Frameline, its sponsoring organization, attract filmmakers from around the world for ten days of screenings, parties, and discussion about queer film.

Landmarks

No matter what's playing, buy a ticket to see a movie at the Castro Theater (429 Castro St.). Hearing its Mighty Wurlitzer Organ alone is worth the price of admission. Prepare to be amazed at the art-deco, Moorish and otherwise lavish combination of interior designs that is The Castro.

Affiliated with the Universal Fellowship of Metropolitan Community Churches, the Metropolitan Community Church San Francisco (150 Eureka St.) is the second-oldest lesbian and gay congregation in the United States. It's a vibrant and progressive community of faith for gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender people in San Francisco, and the building that houses the church also houses many, many other community organizations that support everyone from teens to the homeless.

Smack in the middle of the Castro, Magnet (4122 18th St.) takes a truly holistic approach to gay men's physical, mental and sexual health, but this is no sterile clinic. Yes, you can get anonymous STD and HIV testing, but Magnet also offers counseling, classes, seminars, performance arts and even game nights where gay men can socialize, interact and learn in a judgment-free zone.

Tours

CityGuides' volunteer-led walking tour, called Castro: Tales of the Village takes you on a stroll down the historic byways of the Castro, from its roots as an Ohlone Indian foraging ground, through its humble beginnings as a working-class neighborhood of immigrant homesteaders to its emergence as the vibrant, eclectic district it is today.

Shopping

Gifts & novelties

With its quirky, creative window displays, Cliff's Variety (479 Castro St.) is an institution. It's a real hardware store, and they do sell tools, but they also stock fun gifts, toys, games, cookware and kitchenware, and nice things for the bar. Does Your Father Know? (548 Castro St.) and Does Your Mother Know? (4141 18th St.) supply the gay community with greeting cards, refrigerator magnets and kitschy novelty gifts. (Father is racier than Mother.) Though the gifts at Under One Roof (549 Castro St.) occasionally dip into predictably rainbow-colored waters, you can usually find some remarkable artisanal goods, and proceeds benefit local AIDS service organizations. For last-minute housewarming gifts, Friendly Spirits (572 Castro St.) features more than 250 different wines from around the world as well as high-end, alcohol-free options.

Book and record stores

A Different Light Bookstore (489 Castro St.) is the spot to pick books, magazines, guides and even comic books aimed at the gay, bi, lesbian, transgender and transsexual communities. For used books, try the cozy Aardvark (227 Church St.), which also sells rare books and a wide range of magazines.

Streetlight Records (2350 Market St.) specializes in hard-to-find and out-of-print vinyl, but it's also a great place to find used recent releases.

Clothing

On the higher end, while the mammoth Diesel store (400 Castro St.) is a monument to the homogeneity of the gay dress code, Rolo (2351 Market St.) has fashion attitude to spare and stocks all the prestige brands beloved by the gay community. For clubwear, Citizen (536 Castro St.) and the pair of young, edgy Clobba boutiques (587 Castro St. and 2265 Market St.) boast a great variety of men's and women's sheer, tight-fitting T's, graphic tees and low-slung jeans. Behind the attractive window displays, a fine collection of men's casual wear and accessories can be found at All American Boy (463 Castro St.). Men and women who like body-conscious, stylish casual wear should stop by Injeanious (432 Castro St.), which is also known for its good selection of men's underwear and snarky tee shirts. For secondhand clothes, at Crossroads Trading Co. (2123 Market St.) you'll find acres of last year's Kenneth Cole, Banana Republic and Diesel, Diesel, Diesel; Keep your eyes peeled -- you'll occasionally find some serious gems here. For Levi's or combat boots that someone has already broken in, Worn Out West (582 Castro St.) is the place, with leather harnesses, ball gags, new and used boots, leather jackets, fatigues, police togs and latex wear occupying the upstairs level. Women's accessories are thin on the ground in the area, but Gallery Flux (4092 18th St.) fills in the blank with independent artisans' jewelry with a focus on modern design, clean lines and unfussy elegance.

Beauty

Parisian men's salon Nickel (2187 Market St., and it's pronounced nee-KELL, sweetie) is where to get waxed, scrubbed, rubbed, plucked, preened and pampered. And if you're feeling a bit pale, you can pop next door to Tan Bella (2185 Market St.) for a quick spray-on tan. Hey, you think it's easy to be this beautiful?

Florists

Call it cliché, but if you want flowers, honey, you came to the right neighborhood. Ixia's (2231 Market St.) abstract, otherworldly arrangements in the window send a strong message: No mums here. Their eclectic collection of exotic flowers, dried branches and other natural detritus somehow lend themselves to truly breathtaking bouquets. Perhaps more rooted on planet earth yet no less dramatic, Bredwell Meyer Flowers (4359 18th St.) uses exotic, tropical flowers to create exotic arrangements. Urban Flowers (4029 18th St.) takes care of everything else, with a substantial collection of everything from over-the-top orchids to hum-drum mums.

Home décor

Who needs Pottery Barn (2390 Market St.)? The arrival of the mega-chain store caused a ruckus in the neighborhood; luckily, alternatives abound. Check out the aptly named home (538 Castro St.) if you like the PB vibe, but want to support an independent business. Across the street at Blue Ventana (545 Castro St.), Asian-flavored furnishings in teak, leather and rich earth tones offer a worldly alternative to the urban modern chic that prevails at its competitors. Of course, a house is just a home until it's accessorized. Multi-culti bric-a-brac and clutter-to-be are on offer at Many Moons (2343 Market St.), Earthtones (2323 Market St.) and Planetweavers (518 Castro St.). FINDecor (258 Noe St.) is for the mid-century modern enthusiast, with funky, quirky home accessories with a distinctly retro flair. Quite on the opposite end of the spectrum, Isgro & Co (541 Castro St.) is chockablock with antique lighting fixtures, traditional upholstered furniture and custom crystal pieces straight out of your Aunt Mabel's place. Décor is all about details, and Bauerware (3886 17th St.) is where you can dress up your drawers with knobs and pulls both ordinary and outrageous. You'll not find a better selection anywhere. Top -- or rather, bottom -- it all off with one of the exquisite rugs from Orient (168 Sanchez St.), specializing in truly hand-made rugs, using hand-spun yarn and natural dyes. The designs range from the classic to Kilim to contemporary.

Where you'd want to go in the Castro depends largely on who you are and whom you like to look at. Strangely, there are no bars specifically for women in the Castro, so lesbians should know that they might find more female company at Harvey's or The Café than at Daddy's or Detour. The Pendulum caters to gay African-American men, whereas gentlemen over the age of 40 might head straight to Twin Peaks. Regardless of who you are, you'll see plenty of lesbians, gay men and their friends and fans at the following places.

Many of the restaurants in the Castro have a vibrant bar scene attached, especially at happy hour. If you don't want to brave the crowds at the bars, stop into Mecca, 2223 Restaurant and Bar, Lime or Home for a quick sip, nibble and flirt.

Castro Street

Previously the Elephant Walk bar, site of a brutal anti-gay beating by S.F. police officers in 1979, the now glitzy and popular Harvey's (500 Castro St.) is a perfect place for people watching and has a great beer selection.

Frequenters of Daddy's (440 Castro St.), a small, dark and intimate Castro Street hangout, are youngish, largely male and impeccably leather-clad. Daddy's also attracts more women, of the leather persuasion and otherwise, than most other Castro bars.

In Twin Peaks (410 Castro St.) gather our village elders. And for this it is known by an appalling epithet: the Glass Coffin. Be that as it may, men of all ages may enter and be welcomed.

The Bar on Castro (456 Castro St.) is a dependable, middle-of-the-road, casual spot that serves a slightly upscale after-work crowd of young professionals, including a healthy dose of women.

18th Street

The Pendulum (4146 18th St.) is only bar in the city geared toward African-American men. This is a highly recommended nightspot, awash in friendly sexiness and soulful tunes, with a nice-sized patio out back, great bartenders and an amateur strip show on Wednesday nights.

Upstairs from the Red Grill restaurant, the Whiskey Lounge (4063 18th St.) sports the look of an inviting English-manor drawing room, with leather armchairs, books on the walls and the low glow of faux firelight.

The Edge (4149 18th St.) is neighborhood bar par excellence, with zero attitude, manly men and stiff drinks; small wonder so many community groups choose it as a spot to convene.

Outside Midnight Sun (4067 18th St.), a line of clean-cut young bucks extends down the block. Inside, enormous TV screens are everywhere the eye darts. Most of the guys here are only slight variations on a single (in this case, a buttoned-down and buttoned-up) theme, but it's a comfortable place to watch TV with other men.

Though many have decried the L.A.-inspired, shiny metallic new Badlands (4121 18th St.) ever since the day it opened, it has packed in enthusiastic tank-topped throngs from day one.

File under "M": The Mix (4086 18th St.). Moby Dick (4049 18th St.) and The Men's Room (3988 18th St.) -- all scarcely a block apart, all quintessential Castro haunts -- can be largely interchangeable, yet each is endearing and accessible, no-fuss joints where you can go have a beer and shoot pool and rub elbows with the local hoi polloi. If only The Edge (see above) also began with the same letter, we'd have a complete set.

Market Street and 14th Street

Bar/dance club/pool hall The Cafe (2367 Market St.), with its redwood courtyard/patio, is a great place to show off your midwinter tan and toned pectorals.

There's something to be said for the warm, yellow lighting that imbues comfy-yet-chic bar Amber (718 14th St.) -- it makes everyone look good! It's known for its great mojitos, and for being one of the only bars in SF where you can smoke. Inside!

Cafe du Nord (2170 Market St.) carries its history as a former speakeasy like a torch. Located literally underneath the historic Swedish American Building, it'd be a sublime place for a secret rendezvous if it weren't so dang popular. Nightly live music ranges from the best in swing to an adventurously booked experimental lounge night.

Formerly a gay piano bar, today The Mint (1942 Market St.) offers this city's best and, not coincidentally, queerest karaoke experience. With more than 3,000 (free) song selections, a refreshingly diverse crowd and an almost familylike atmosphere, this popular nightspot inevitably provides feel-good fun for those who like their fave tunes de/reconstructed by amateurs, wanna-bes, occasional real-life rockers and the far, far too drunk.

Detour (2348 Market St.) is a good choice for men who want to do some serious cruising, and like really loud music (replete with go-go boys on weekends), very dark interiors and that industrial chain-link fence look, but don't want to make the trip all the way to the Folsom/Harrison corridor.

The Expansion Bar (2124 Market St.) on Market Street keeps the local mantle of "dive" alive. There's a pool table, a pinball machine, TVs that show whatever major sporting event might be on, lots of smoke and not much of a gay crowd.

One of the most excellent rocker bars in the city, Lucky 13 (2140 Market St.) plays up its name to the hilt, with evil "black cat" and "luck-of-the-draw" iconography on the logo T-shirts they sell. The jukebox is heavy and diverse, the pool table's always busy and the pinball machines upstairs provide an excellent retreat.

Church Street and 16th Street

The Pilsner Inn (225 Church St.) is airy, and the ceiling is covered in a blue pressed tin you just don't find too often nowadays. The patio is sunny during the day and has a fountain where little fishies swim around. There are lots of old faves on the jukebox, and an eclectic, good-looking crowd.

The key selling points of Metro City Bar (3600 16th St.) are its central and very visible location overlooking the mammoth 16th Street/Castro/Market intersection, its young, urban and professional crowd, the sheer numbers it attracts and the wonders of karaoke.